- Priya Chetty
- Dec 12, 2024
- 4 min read
Links
The Hindu https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/bangalore/a-walk-that-takes-you-through-125-years-of-history/article3745248.ece
Bangalore Mirror 2014 A walk to remember
There’s a lot for history buffs to discover at this sprawling 125-year-old property
Shivani Kagti
'It’s a slightly cloudy September evening as we meander through the 20-acres of vast green spaces, featuring centuries-old trees, in the heart of what’s fast becoming a concrete city. We are at hotel Taj West End, with a glass of champagne in hand, to experience 125-year-old history. The Art of Afternoon Tea is in progress — it is basically your evening cuppa in vintage colonial style: complete with dainty sandwiches, scones and bite-sized pastries and a guided heritage walk showcasing the colonial beginnings within the premise.
Highlights from the heritage walk:
A 166-year-old rain tree
Our first stop is an expansive rain tree which is older than the property and has been around since 1848. “The base of the tree is so wide that six-seven people have to stand around the trunk and join hands to cover its expanse,” says our guide for the evening and senior horticulturist SLV Prasad, adding that it’s the second oldest rain tree in Karnataka. Apart from this tree, which incidentally, is home to several eagles, are the four stubby Cycad trees at the entrance which are about 150 years old.
Colonial & gothic styles
Under the canopy of the substantial rain tree stands the second oldest structure on the property, which is referred to as the 1905 block. Built in typical colonial style, a point of interest are the teakwood windows, which follow two patterns — colonial and gothic styles (with the more accentuated arch). Apparently, the windows were built in two different styles to divide the load more evenly across the structure apart from the visual appeal factor. With the windows partitioned into two (another typical design element at the time), wooden ventilators or slats are attached to each window which can be adjusted from the inside. On a cool day, like most days in Bangalore, there’s no need for fans if the slats are opened. As we walk the marble-tiled corridors, it’s easy to imagine a cigar-toting Winston Churchill, one of many famous visitors, treading the same path when he was here as a war journalist. “We even have a rare smiling photograph of the former British PM standing next to an elephant at the grounds here,” adds Prasad.
A touch of Italy
As we cross several more patches of green — particularly stunning are an aquatic garden and tall tamarind trees — hidden amongst the foliage one spies the oldest structure here. Started in 1887 as the Bronson’s West End, this building was originally a 10-bedded inn. Later, the owners, a British couple by the name of Bronson, took over a second building that belonged to the Secretary of the Race Club and then a third building which belonged to the Grenadier Guards, an elite regiment that was stationed in Bangalore at the time. Located in the heart of the current premises, it now houses a spa but the exterior has been preserved to retain the old world charm. At the entrance, there’s a patch of Italian mosaic tiles that has been preserved from the time of the Bronsons. Incidentally, the original structure was built by an Italian architect.
The wisdom of monkey tops
At a time, when we are fast losing most of our colonial hang-ups and heritage, including some beautiful Victorian style bungalows, it has becoming increasingly rare to spot some of the inherently charming features of this type of architecture — tiled roofs, distinctive gables, dormers, monkey-tops, trelliswork and intricately carved fasciae. Prasad explains how the monkey-tops (the triangular arches with a steeple on top) were originally built to keep marauding monkeys away. “The uneven and angular structure made it difficult for the monkeys to grab hold of anything or sit,” says Prasad. As we troop through the heritage bungalow, navigating a 100-year-old rosewood staircase, we chance upon several brass chandeliers that have been here since the early 1900s. Two pairs of 60 to 70-year-old hand-painted door frames (now gracing the walls), intricately hand-drawn maps of peninsular India, an unusual Tanjore painting and a pair of Ming vases — all dating back to the colonial era — are casually strewn across the hallways.
A royal heritage
Taking a breather from the architectural tour, we are led to another spacious garden, the 11,000 square feet Prince of Wales lawn, named after the royal personage when he visited in 1962. As we take in the gulmohar, pine and rain trees that populate the park, it’s easy to visualise Dame Peggy Ashcroft, sitting on a cane chair here reading a book or two, while filming for David Lean’s A Passage to India. Adjacent to the gardens, is the Muneshwara temple which was part of the original plot. Not wanting to hurt local sentiments, the temple was kept as it is. “A few years ago, during a storm, a tree fell upon the temple. The tree broke but the temple was more or less intact,” adds our guide. Behind the lawns, is a herb garden and nursery. Don’t be surprised to run into a stray turkey or guinea fowl while surveying the area.
A lost art
At the end of the tour we are led back to where we started and there in one corner is a reminder of another lost art — letter writing. Standing proudly on one side of the porch is a first-generation postbox that has been here since 1887. Used by soldiers during World War II, Prasad shares this amusing story of how miscreants would steal letters from the letter box during wartime. “They would attach chewing gum to a thread and drop into the postbox to withdraw letters. They would keep whatever was relevant and discard the rest. This way, many letters never found their way to their destination.” Given that every day, at 4 pm, the letter box is cleared by a postman, we are encouraged to mail a postcard. It’s tempting, and perhaps, this is the best way to end a walk that truly takes you back in time.'
